Swimwear cuts that work for different body proportions
By the Elk Pegasus studio,
How to think about cut before you choose a design
The relationship between a swimwear cut and a body proportion is not a set of rules. It is a set of considerations. This article covers the main cuts available in bespoke swimwear and the proportional factors that make each one work well or less well.
One-piece cuts and torso length
The most common fit issue with ready-to-wear one-pieces is torso length. A one-piece that is too short in the body pulls down at the shoulders and up at the leg openings simultaneously. A one-piece that is too long sits loosely at the chest and bags at the seat.
In bespoke construction, torso length is one of the twelve measurements taken at the first consultation. The pattern is drawn to the client's actual torso length, which resolves this issue entirely. The cut, whether high-neck, plunge, or straight across, is then chosen based on the client's preference and the proportions of the upper body.
Bikini tops: triangle, bandeau, and underwire
A triangle top distributes support through the ties and works well for smaller bust sizes where the ties can carry the load without the top shifting. For larger bust sizes, a triangle top requires careful sizing of the fabric panels to provide enough coverage and support without the ties doing all the work.
A bandeau top with boning provides more structure and is better suited to clients who want support without straps. The boning needs to be fitted carefully to the client's ribcage measurement; a bandeau that is too loose will not stay in place, and one that is too tight is uncomfortable. An underwire option is available for clients who need the most support, though it requires the most precise fitting of the three.
Low-rise versus mid-rise briefs
Brief rise is largely a matter of preference, but there are proportional considerations. A low-rise brief sits below the natural waist and elongates the torso visually. A mid-rise brief sits at or just below the natural waist and provides more coverage. A high-rise brief sits at the natural waist and is a popular choice for everyday wear.
The choice of rise also affects how the brief is sized. A high-rise brief requires a waist measurement as well as a hip measurement; a low-rise brief is sized primarily from the hip.
These are starting points, not prescriptions. The first consultation is the right place to work through the specifics of your proportions and what you want the piece to do.